It’s peak tanning hour on a typical weekend: the public beach is lined with outstretched locals, and in linking the sandy towels, a statuesque drag queen is strutting as if on a runway. Like Barcelona itself, she is determined and fearless, sexy and mysterious, a constant work in progress. But not a soul pays any consideration to her. This city has always had a flavor for the inspirational and the surreal-inspiring such artists as Salvador Dal

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